For someone whose natural attire is thick jumpers and lace-up boots, the arrival of September is a breath of fresh air. I always grapple for inspiration during summer, but the one thing that keeps my camera from gathering dust is the emergence of butterflies.
Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary
Common Blue
Small Skipper
Small Heath
Small Tortoiseshell
Speckled Wood
This season I saw my first Grayling during a trip to Tentsmuir in Fife, and my first Small Blue just down the road from where I live. One is an expert camouflager and the other is absolutely tiny, so I was thrilled to find both!
Grayling
Small Blue
It was also a pleasure to see a decent number of Scotch Argus in my local patch again. Although not the most colourful of butterflies, there’s something so striking about the Scotch Argus and I always love seeing that flash of black among the bracken.
Scotch Argus
It’s been fun focussing on these tiny beauties, but now I’m keen to put the summer slump behind me. Here’s to fiery leaves, crunchy grass and soggy fungi.
I’ve recently returned from an amazing holiday in Fife with my family. I say holiday… I ended up working throughout, but in my defence it was the perfect opportunity to do some research for an upcoming project that I have to keep under my hat for now!
We’ve been holidaying in this particular cottage for the past 18 years, and I was both a lot shorter and nowhere near as bird savvy the first time we visited. Everything always stays exactly the same, prompting endless nostalgia and happy memories. The big difference this time was my 92-year-old nan came too, and being able to show her the place that’s become so special to us was such a treat.
Monster Truck on St Andrews Beach!
Naturally, I was out and about watching wildlife. Butterfly Conservation hosted an open day at Tentsmuir during our stay and I leapt at the chance to explore the site with a knowledgeable guide. During the walk I saw my first grayling, and was stunned by how effective their camouflage is.
A visit to Edinburgh, one of my favourite cities, was a must. Again, I was there in search of butterflies, and I met up with a wonderful volunteer who showed me around Holyrood Park. We found two graylings and plenty of small skippers, and after parting ways I couldn’t help being a tourist and hiking up Arthur’s Seat for the first time.
I also indulged in lazy birdwatching from the house. Each morning a group of swallows swept around the cottage and perched on the drainpipe, just inches from the kitchen window. I usually only see swallows as distant specks in the sky, so it was fantastic to get such close-up views from the comfort of a plush armchair.
Finally I met up with my friend Kirstin, who happens to live down the road from the cottage. We took her gorgeous ponies on a hack and wandered through woodland and open fields, finishing with a splash in the River Tay. I hadn’t ridden since I was a child and it was so special to explore nature on horseback.
Nothing like a change of scenery and new wildlife sites to kickstart my inspiration again!
One of my favourite places to write about for my book was Muir of Dinnet, a nature reserve near Ballater in the Cairngorms National Park. Within a pretty small area, there are lochs, streams and patches of woodland, grassland and bog with a handy boardwalk for wildlife watching with dry feet.
I always spend the whole day here when I visit, strolling along its various waymarked trails. On this occasion I saw a diverse mix of birds, mammals, insects and even a surprise common lizard rustling in bracken beside the path.
Muir of Dinnet is a really special place and I’m often singing its praises! Here’s a medley of photos from my most recent visit, showing just how much this reserve has to offer.
During the recent heatwave I went off in search of one of my favourite butterflies: the Common Blue. I found one but it only settled for a moment before flickering off, and I was too drained by the heat to hunt for it. I returned to the same spot this week in much cooler temperatures, hoping this meant the butterflies would be more lethargic.
Meadow Brown
Small Heath
Almost straight away I crossed paths with half a dozen Meadow Browns and Small Heaths, which was a reassuring start. I spent an hour photographing them on various perches, but as the morning wore on I began to wonder when (or if) the Blues would make an appearance.
As so often happens, I was just nibbling my elevenses when I passed a clump of valerian growing out of the long grass, and perched on its white flowers were two male Common Blues.
I had my usual response: excitement at finding what I’d come to see and panic that they’d fly before I could get photo evidence. Luckily the morning was still cool, so they stayed put as I crawled around the valerian stalk and photographed them from every angle.
They’d initially had their wings closed, showing a row of orange flecks above a shimmery blue base. As they moved around the petals, their wings slowly opened, revealing upper wings so shockingly blue I couldn’t help a little dramatic gasp escaping. How can something be so tiny yet so magnificent?!
Of course, we have plenty of brightly coloured wildlife in Britain, but I can’t help thinking these azure beauties look like they’ve wandered across the Atlantic from sticky South American jungles.
I didn’t know where these two had suddenly emerged from, but after they lifted from the valerian I easily kept track of their sapphire wings as they fluttered along the dune path.
As the sun climbed higher and broke through the clouds, the Blues Brothers gained more energy and were soon zipping around quicker than I could follow. I decided to bow out and head home, delighted with the morning’s catch.
My book has been out in the world for just over a month and I’m thrilled with the feedback I’ve received so far. Knowing that people I don’t even know are reading what I spent three years putting together is such an amazing feeling.
Reviews are starting to trickle in and I wanted to share some here just because they make me unbelievably happy. In particular, I’m proud that even those who are familiar with North East Scotland are discovering places they didn’t know – that’s the true essence of a Slow guide so I’m really pleased I’ve succeeded in capturing it.
If you’d like a copy of Slow Travel North East Scotland, you can order through Amazon, Waterstones or directly from the publisher by clicking the button below.
I spend most of my time outside peering up. My love of nature began with birds so I’m constantly checking tree canopies and rooftops for anyone perching or preening.
However, each summer my attention is snagged by a different kind of winged wildlife: butterflies. I consider myself pretty competent when it comes to bird ID but I’m very much at the floundering beginner stage with butterflies.
Red Admiral
Still, I’ve found that by learning just a couple of new ones each summer, I can slowly build my knowledge. Luckily for me there are only about 30 regularly occurring butterfly species in Scotland, so at least I can’t get too confused.
During this week’s (very) hot spell, I headed out for a bit of butterfly spotting. I was lucky enough to see a few different species around my local area, including some teeny tiny beauties.
Small HeathCommon BlueLarge White
RingletPeacockSmall BlueSpeckled Wood
As well as butterflies, I also had close encounters with other insects this week. After consulting books and reaching out to more knowledgeable folk on Instagram and iNaturalist, I managed to identify some quirky finds!
Bee beetle
Silver-ground Carpet moth
Scorpion fly (female)
Each summer I’m reminded that insect photography requires a very different skillset to capturing birds. There have been some exasperating moments, such as when a Common Blue just wouldn’t land and a Small Heath zipped away the second I got the focus right. Still, I’m chuffed with my results and looking forward to seeing some new players appear in the coming weeks.
Apparently it’s World Ocean Day! I can never keep up with all these international days, but I was keen to get involved with this one. Since moving to Scotland, the ocean has become a huge part of my local landscape and it never fails to both relax and inspire me.
My local patch is a mile-long strip of rocky shore that’s bursting with wildlife – depending on the tide I can see gannets diving for fish, turnstones foraging among the kelp or bottlenose dolphins flinging themselves into the air.
I’ve also been lucky enough to watch marine wildlife in Norway. During an unforgettable trip in 2020, I saw orcas, humpback whales and white tailed eagles – often all at the same time. Despite a dash of seasickness and some very numb toes, it was one of the best experiences of my life. I couldn’t believe I was surrounded by such huge animals, and it was a real privilege to share the icy fjords with them.
When I arrived at Troup Head I could barely see. The mist was so thick it obscured the sheep chatting away in a field less than 30ft away. Seeing as I was here to photograph gannets at their clifftop nesting site, visibility as poor as this suggested impending disaster.
Refusing to waste a journey, I geared up and set off on the coast path. I took the long route to the cliff in the vain hope that the mist would have cleared by the time I arrived. Sadly not. As I approached the nesting site I could make out the blurry outlines of gannets gliding past – white against slightly duller white.
I settled on the grass and propped my camera lens on my knees. The entire ocean had disappeared, but luckily a cluster of gannets were perched close enough for me to actually see them through the fog.
I already had huge respect for gannets, with their vast wingspan, dagger-like bills and ability to slam into water from a great height without injuring themselves. But watching them navigate a jumble of clifftops through what was essentially a white-out was even more impressive.
Despite the less-than-ideal conditions, after several hours I managed to get some shots I was happy with. Gannet goings-on continued as normal, and I watched bonding behaviours between mating pairs, grooming, and the occasional brawl when a neighbour shifted too close.
You can anticipate exactly when a gannet is going to launch itself off the cliff, as it takes several slow steps along the ledge with its bill pointed straight up, as if either limbering up for take-off or encouraging its companions to watch. It’s a bit of a showy thing to do and I love them for it.
By midday the mist hadn’t moved and my stomach was grumbling, so I called it a day and strolled back along the coast trail. Scottish weather is nothing if not predictable, but this means you usually don’t have to wait long for it to change.
Sure enough, when I returned the next day the sun was gleaming and the ocean was back. This time I could see gannets everywhere, swirling in the now cloudless sky as well as perching on their precarious ledges.
I’d taken lots of stationary shots the day before so I turned my attention to birds coming into land. This provided its own set of challenges – unlike their sky pointing routine before take-off, there was no warning before they popped up in a flurry of white wings.
It was a pleasure to spend time with such striking and charismatic birds and watch their daily routine from the lofty heights of the clifftop colony.
There are certain birds that I look forward to seeing every year. As the seasons shift, there’s a constant shuffle of some leaving the UK and others arriving. One particular spring/summer visitor who’s pretty much everyone’s favourite is the puffin.
Recently I set off on one of my annual pilgrimages to see these tiny seabirds at one of the clifftop nesting sites they share with guillemots, razorbills, fulmars and kittiwakes. They blend in well despite those luminous bills, often tucked away in their burrows and out of sight altogether. The key is to look for orange legs, which the other cliff inhabitants don’t have.
After a bit of fruitless searching I was just rummaging for some elevenses when a flash of orange made me abandon my search for chocolate. In a scrap of a second I’d seen a puffin fly past, curving around the cliff edge and back out towards the open sea. I hurried into position in case it returned and luckily for me it did, performing four rapid fly-bys with spectacular feet dangling.
Later in the day I tried my luck at a different spot, settling in a cup of earth in view of several grassy burrows that looked promising. I got distracted by a puffin on the water, some 100ft down. Even from that distance I could spot orange legs beneath the clear surface, so I enjoyed watching it through my binoculars as it bobbed around with its larger neighbours.
Birds are like buses in that they’re notoriously unreliable and just when you’ve waited long enough for one, two show up. Once I put down my binos, I found myself staring at another puffin perched 20ft from my lens. The little scamp! Luckily it had decided to take in the views before disappearing into its burrow, giving me a chance to make up for lost time and get some portrait shots.
Forty minutes later, a magic trick occurred and two puffins popped out. Either I’d missed the first one while I was ogling the water, or it had been hanging out inside the burrow the whole time. They lunged off the cliff together and I tracked them heading way out to sea, shrinking to black dots. Not ideal, as I had no idea how long a puffin took to fish.
Two hours, as it turns out. The sun had been screened by cloud all day but of course once I had no puffins to photograph it broke through and illuminated the burrow entrance like a theatre spotlight. By that point I’d spent seven hours on the cliff and evening was drawing on – I had a runny nose, numb bum and grumbling stomach and was ready to call it a day. But any superstitious photographer fears that as soon as you leave, the action happens. A combination of bird FOMO and my usual stubbornness made me stick it out a little longer.
Less than five minutes after I decided not to leave, the puffins returned, now looking radiant in the sun. A snaky pair indeed. Every minute spent staring at an empty burrow was suddenly worthwhile, and I finally left feeling ravenous yet thrilled with the day’s success.
rebeccaonthewing.com 