A Fortnight in Fife

I’ve recently returned from an amazing holiday in Fife with my family. I say holiday… I ended up working throughout, but in my defence it was the perfect opportunity to do some research for an upcoming project that I have to keep under my hat for now!

We’ve been holidaying in this particular cottage for the past 18 years, and I was both a lot shorter and nowhere near as bird savvy the first time we visited. Everything always stays exactly the same, prompting endless nostalgia and happy memories. The big difference this time was my 92-year-old nan came too, and being able to show her the place that’s become so special to us was such a treat.

Monster Truck on St Andrews Beach!

Naturally, I was out and about watching wildlife. Butterfly Conservation hosted an open day at Tentsmuir during our stay and I leapt at the chance to explore the site with a knowledgeable guide. During the walk I saw my first grayling, and was stunned by how effective their camouflage is.

A visit to Edinburgh, one of my favourite cities, was a must. Again, I was there in search of butterflies, and I met up with a wonderful volunteer who showed me around Holyrood Park. We found two graylings and plenty of small skippers, and after parting ways I couldn’t help being a tourist and hiking up Arthur’s Seat for the first time.

I also indulged in lazy birdwatching from the house. Each morning a group of swallows swept around the cottage and perched on the drainpipe, just inches from the kitchen window. I usually only see swallows as distant specks in the sky, so it was fantastic to get such close-up views from the comfort of a plush armchair.    

Finally I met up with my friend Kirstin, who happens to live down the road from the cottage. We took her gorgeous ponies on a hack and wandered through woodland and open fields, finishing with a splash in the River Tay. I hadn’t ridden since I was a child and it was so special to explore nature on horseback.

Nothing like a change of scenery and new wildlife sites to kickstart my inspiration again!

My Scotland

The Scots Magazine has a photo feature each issue written by a famous Scot about their favourite places in the country. They can be locations with personal memories attached to them or just spots they enjoy visiting. It got me thinking about which places I would choose, so this week’s blog is my ‘My Scotland’.


Burghead

This narrow village on the Moray Coast, surrounded on almost all sides by ocean, brought about a huge shift in my life. Those who have followed me for a while will know that I grew up in south east England, and once I began exploring Scotland I realised I didn’t belong in my home country anymore.

It was Burghead that introduced me to north east Scotland and this in turn led to my first book, so it will always be a meaningful place for me. I’ve also seen a humpback whale, orcas, basking sharks and the northern lights from its rocky shore, so that scores it plenty of points!


Edinburgh

Edinburgh was the first city I visited in Scotland, and every time I go there I’m on holiday so it reminds me of Fringe shows and the Christmas market no matter what time of year it is.

Its centre is old and graceful, with everything you expect to see in a city but with cobbles, narrow closes and plenty of steep staircases. It’s also the home of Hendersons, an amazing vegetarian restaurant where I’ve had my favourite ever meals.

Image: Aleks Michajlowicz


Assynt

Since moving to Scotland I’ve made a pilgrimage to the west coast every year. Usually this is in autumn to coincide with rutting red deer and leaping salmon, but I’ve also been in summer and seen great northern divers, white tailed eagles and even pine martens in daylight, when it’s not truly dark until nearly midnight.

It’s also where I broke my lifelong curse and got my first otter photos. The wilderness of Assynt has given me countless wildlife memories and as soon as I leave I’m thinking about when to go back.


Aberdeen

I’m not much of an urban dweller and much prefer the stillness and seclusion of rural habitats, but I connected to Aberdeen straight away. Scotland’s third largest city is hugely varied and this is perhaps most evident in its architecture, where a single street has large stone block buildings, ornate granite colleges and transparent office blocks.

Despite its size Aberdeen is easily walkable, with museums, gardens, restaurants and artworks in just a couple of miles. It has loads of character.     


Uath Lochans

I love the Cairngorms National Park in general, but this spot in particular had me obsessed from my first visit. I rarely use the word ‘magic’ because there isn’t much that justifies it, but the Uath Lochans do.

Submerged in pine forest not far from Aviemore, these four small lochs sparkle like they emit their own light. On a still day in summer, their surfaces create perfect reflections of the heathery hills beyond, disturbed only by the feet of dragonflies.


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Dear Old Ed

I was lucky to find myself in beautiful, beautiful Edinburgh again this weekend, a city I would happily spend every weekend in. As I emerged from Edinburgh Waverley onto Princes Street I was filled with the usual excitement that comes with arriving into Scotland’s capital. Immediately we headed to the City Cafe just off the Royal Mile, our new favourite food haunt. I gorged on scrumptious ribs and sweet potato fries, which refuelled me nicely after the train journey.

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Deep down I felt embarrassed looking like the most obvious tourist in the world as I clutched my camera and shivered in what I thought was cold weather. I’ve been to Edinburgh many times, but it still feels new on every visit. There’s always a shop I hadn’t been in or a beautiful building I haven’t gazed up at. I’ll never take this city for granted, so will never tire of photographing it.

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As usual the streets were buzzing with noise; bustling shoppers and laughter spilling from the nearby pubs, all accompanied by the steady hum of bagpipes. I’ve asked multiple Scots if they ever get bored of hearing the bagpipes and they’ve all said no. If I were a native I don’t think I would either – the sound reminds me of old holidays and unforgettable days out.

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All too soon it was morning again and time to get the train home. My weekend visit was only fleeting, though I’m sure a month-long stay would have felt just as brief. Here’s to the next excuse I get to pay a visit!